Tuesday, January 25, 2011

To forage or. . . NOT to forage


Some dear friends of mine took me on my first food foraging adventure event just before Christmas. You can imagine my excitement - here in Northern California, the epicenter of the local food movement, finding and harvesting your own food is practically the core of culinary truth.

The mission was to harvest large California golden chanterelles - bright precious gems that grow slowly, appearing in the winter months at the foot of oak groves situated at a precise altitude in Northern California. We were searching for the Queen of the Forest, mycological treasure. Visions of idyllic strolls through forest meadows and the rush of finding pristine bundles of golden mushrooms filled my head.

And so we ventured East, over the Bay Bridge and into the far lands past Berkeley. To a San Francisco city girl, we were in lush green hinterlands that further added to the mystique of our purpose. "There be dragons" (or at least, great wild harvests) the signs may as well have said. And we arrived at our destination, which shall remain nameless to preserve this secret mushroom spot for those who so kindly shared it with us that day. Suffice to say, no beaten path can lead you there.

The reality, I must say, was something else entirely. Mushrooms, it turns out, grow in some of the least convenient habitats possible. There were indeed lush green meadows and beautiful live oak tree groves. But to get to them required wading through mud pits and rifling through musty detritus and slimy earth. At points, the paths we chose were so harrowing our shoes, already caked in mud, slipped down treacherous ravines and river beds, threatening to dump us and what few mushrooms we had gathered 30 feet below.

And yet on our group pushed, ever motivated by the prospect of finding a bundle of golden eggs (or mushrooms, as it were). And when you finally spot those deep yellow-orange ears, sprouting from the ground between an age-old oak tree's roots, it's like a drug-induced high. Adrenaline pumps, you dash over and cut them from the ground before others can reach them. And when you find one, there are generally more in the area. Remember that childhood excitement over treasure hunts? It's the same feeling, for adults.

I'm glad I had the experience. But I must admit, there is still something less than glorious about hauling 7 lbs of fungus home only to remove another 2 lbs of caked dirt and decay before you can eat them. There may be an earthworm or small lizard or two, too. And because you can't wash these mushrooms - they become too water logged - prepare yourself for a bit of unpleasant silt in the cooked product. Yuck. Still, if you enjoy mushrooms - rejoice. With the giant haul you'll likely bring home, you'll be eating mushrooms for days. And days.

I'll say the un-sayable: wild harvesting was a great experience. But I would far prefer getting served perfectly cleaned, beautifully prepared chanterelles on a restaurant plate any day. The process of locating, cleaning and cooking this rather dirt-ridden produce is a turn-off. If this makes me a less hardcore foodie, that's fine. They can keep the dirt and earthworms.

Two hours after coming home with our loot, Zack and I stepped into Bi Rite Market and saw a beautiful, pristine bunch of Golden Chanterelles. Selling price: $35/lb. Our day's mushroom haul was worth $250 to someone . . .

So enjoy the trekking and mushroom hunting - but selling your hard-won treasures may be a better post-harvesting option!



Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Baller mushroom tartlets (or what I learned from my sister)

My sister is turning into a pretty serious mistress of the kitchen.

This is a particularly remarkable turn of fate when you consider that two years ago, she was a woman who hardly deigned to chop her own tomatoes. These days, you can regularly find her whipping up delectable and sophisticated dishes. Example 1 of her domestic goddess status: behold, the ridiculously adult-looking mushroom tartlets she made for appetizers at Thanksgiving this year.

These things are seriously tasty. They hardly lasted 10 minutes after coming out of the oven. If you're looking for a relatively easy recipe that will impress your guests and please their palates, try this at your next dinner party.

Ingredients
1 cup walnuts
10 oz frozen puff pastry
3 tbspn unsalted butter
2 large onions, thinly sliced
salt and pepper
3/4 lb of wild mushrooms (crimini and porcini work especially well; remove tough parts of stems)
finely chopped chives
EVOO

Directions
1. Thaw the puff pastry. Pre heat oven to 350F

2. Lightly brown the walnuts in a baking sheet placed in the oven for less than 10 minutes. Careful not to burn! Remove, cool and coarsely chop.

4. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add onions and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Make sure you stir. Reduce heat to low and slow cook until caramelized, about 40 minutes. Let cool. In a food processor, puree with walnuts until mixture forms a smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper.

5. While onions are slow cooking, line medium baking sheet with parchment paper. Separately, on a hard, smooth surface, unfold the puff pastry and use a round pastry cutter to cut into 4 inch rounds, about 1/8 in thick. Set another baking sheet (or flat weight) on top and bake for about 25-30 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven.

6. Increase oven temperature to 400F. Separately, in a medium sauce pot, bring water to boil. Blanch mushrooms for about 2 minutes, until they become a bit tender. Drain, pat dry and cut into 1/4 in slices.

7. Take each pastry round and spread puree on top (leave about 1/4 inch from the edge). Arrange mushroom slices on top, overlapping. Brush with EVOO. Bake for 10 minutes or until hot all the way through. Remove from oven, garnish with chives and serve!

Recipe taken and modified from Jean-Georges Vongerichten in Food&Wine.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Exotic Fruit Gelato on South Beach


I was planning on expounding on the many delicious values of this gelato spot in Miami, but my very attentive boyfriend is insisting that I spend this time interacting with human beings instead of indulging my food fetish.

And so, I will resort to bullet-pointed highlights of the key takeaways compliments of my former life as a management consultant:

  • (Situation) Tart frozen yogurt is still my regular dessert of choice, given that it is far more widely available BUT
  • (Complication) La Gelateria Parmalat on Lincoln Road in Miami makes some amazingly fresh gelato using real fruit which blows original tart out of the water. I tried their papaya and guava and am addicted
  • (Resolution) Sadly, I live a few thousand miles too far for this to be a regular fix. But if you're in the area, now you know - please please enjoy a cup of this deliciousness for me.
And if you get to try the supote, know that I'm extremely jealous.

La Gelateria
670 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139
786.276.9475