Monday, August 6, 2012

Where to eat in the Last Frontier


We went to Alaska recently. The trip was amazing.  We saw lots of stunning wilderness (see top).  Caught some amazing salmon (sockeye! see below). And encountered many grizzly bears - some too close for comfort.

We also ate some amazing food.  The culinary scene has changed a ton since I was last in Alaska 10 years ago. This is no longer the realm of just hamburgers everywhere and impossible-to-find vegetables. There are some very special places that make local Alaskan ingredients sing in inventive ways that I strongly recommend.

I'll save the rustic, off-the-beaten-path local joints for a future post.  But for now, let me tell you about my favorite restaurant in Alaska.


229 Parks Restaurant and Tavern is a lovely new spot that's just past mile marker 229 (229.7 to be exact) on the George Parks Highway to Denali National Park. 8 miles south of the "glitter gulch area," this hidden spot is a sparkling gem in Alaska's interior.



Everything about 229 Parks is local, organic and fresh. Owner and Chef Laura Cole was the executive chef at Camp Denali and the North Face Lodge prior to opening 229 Parks with her husband.  This is her first full-fledged solo venture. This woman is gifted beyond the kitchen - her inspired and talented hand is evident in so many of the restaurant's details from the colorful wildflowers growing around the outside, to the carefully designed cabin that 229 Parks sits in and to the local folk art adorning the walls.



And Chef Cole has certainly done phenomenal things with the fare. The menu features seasonal, fresh ingredients that are sourced locally as much as possible. The kitchen even has its own garden.  The star dish when we dined was a plate of Alaskan King Crab ravioli in a butter-lemon sauce, garnished with sweet little nasturtium (above, top). And anything with spot prawns from this kitchen just sings - especially when paired with their house-made prosciutto (above, bottom). The ice cream sandwich dessert it also not-miss-able (below).




The level of creativity and precision in the flavors that come out of the 229 Parks kitchen are even more remarkable given the resource constraints facing any upscale restaurant in Alaska. It's simply harder to get high quality ingredients, especially in a location so near to Denali, which is largely uninhabited for 6-8 months of the year. So if you make it to 229 Parks after a 13 hour bus ride to Kantishna and back in pure wilderness, as we did, you will really relish it!

And if you're lucky, you may spot a moose as you very slowly walk your stuffed self back to your car. . .

229 Parks
Mile Post 229.7, George Parks Highway
Alaska 
907.683.2567






Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Mario Batali is a Pasta Magician

Babbo does lunch, I recently found out.

And the pasta is as dreamy as ever.  A semolina symphony in your mouth, right in the middle of the work day!

We had a classic - the pappardelle bolognese, and a house specialty - the beef cheek ravioli.


The true sign of a great restaurant is whether they can nail (or convincingly reinvent) an adored classic, and innovate enough to offer diners something surprising and unusual. Both dishes demonstrated this impressive range.

No surprise I suppose. I've already expressed my adoration for Batali and this particular jewel in the Batali-Bastianich restaurant crown before. 

The real star of the show, though, may very well have been thanks to pastry chef Gina DePalma - her pistachio and chocolate semifreddo is something truly special. Order it and two spoons.

Of course, the entire bottle of Bastianich 2010 Friuli that we had alongside our meal made it that much easier to enjoy everything ;o)

Babbo
110 Waverly Place 
New York, NY 10011 
212.777.3365

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Strawberries: from farm to delicious fork

This is a story of organic strawberries that grew up with Pacific breezes and coastal views, that were handpicked by two San Francisco bobos and ended up in a most delectable shortcake, devoured by a group of friends atop a city rooftop on a perfectly summer day.

Once upon a time... Organic, union labor-grown perfection on a vine at Swanton Berry Farm



Rescued from a more evil fate... 22.5 lbs of strawberries in the summer sun can, it turns out, make your car smell divine
  




They all lived happily ever after... Idyllic, atop a baked shortcake with summer bbq accoutrements